Known as the “Land of the Himalayas” Nepal is full of beautiful mountain ranges. Home to 8 of the highest peaks in the world Nepal is the dream destination for any mountaineer. Nepal has 1310 mountain peaks out of which 326 of them are open for the purpose of climbing and mountaineering. Other than the beautiful scenery the mountains provide they also provide the most thrilling adventure and challenges for any adventure seeker. Climbing a mountain is one of the best and exciting activities one can indulge in. And the view from the top is even more exceptional than from the bottom. There are various types of mountains you can climb based on difficulty, altitude, and length. Keeping that in mind we have made a list of the Best Destination for Mountaineering in Nepal.
Best Season for climbing Mountains
Generally, the spring season (April to early June) is considered as the best season for Mountaineering/Peak climbing. It was once the only permission season for mountaineering. In recent years autumn season (September to November) is also the period for successful expeditions. In 1979, the Ministry of Tourism established a season for winter mountaineering. Monsoon season (July to August) isn’t the practical season for peak climbing.
Permit Requirement
Mountaineers need to have permission from the Ministry of Tourism for the purpose of peak climbing, though Liaison Officer isn’t needed for climbing peaks below 6500m. Recently, the Ministry of Tourism decided to withdraw the authority to manage the 33 trekking peaks from the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA), given to it since 1978. The Royalty Fees have also been revised by the government to further promote mountaineering in Nepal.
More info on the list of NMA Mountaineering Peaks
More info on Trekking Peaks Fees
There are various trek peaks in Nepal that are under 6000m which are relatively easy. Mountaineering is different from trekking in that you need climbing equipment to ascend the mountain usually higher than 6000m that includes the crossing of the glacier, crossing snowfield with crampons, climbing steep ice wall with an ice axe and so on. It is a bit different from trekking in terms of technicality and ease. As there are various mountains its hard to find the best mountaineering destination in Nepal but we have compiled a list of few you must climb.
Best Destination for Mountaineering in Nepal
Island Peak (6,183m)
Also known as Imja Tse, Island peak stands at the height of 6183m and is a relatively easy peak to climb. It is non-technical which means you don’t need too much expertise to climb it. This peak provides you with beautiful views of mountains like Mt. Everest (8,848m), Mt. Lhotse, Mt. Nuptse and Mt. Makalu along with a host of other mountains in this range. Due to the relative easiness of this peak, it is one of the Best Destination for Mountaineering in Nepal.
Facts about Island Peak expedition
- Max Elevation: 6189m / 20,305ft
- Time duration: 22 days climb
- Best Season: Spring or autumn
- Accommodation: Guesthouses & Lodges to Island peak or Camping / Camping at Island Peak Base Camp
Mera Peak (6,476m)
Another popular peak for climbers in Nepal is Mera Peak. At the height of 6654m, it is situated in a remote unspoiled Khumbu region of Nepal. Providing excellent view sight of thousand-meter peaks like Makalu, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Kanchenjunga including top of the world Mt. Everest it is a great viewpoint. Mera Peak is not a technical climbing peak but it can certainly help you understand mountaineering in a practical way. At most of the areas, it is walking through slopes not more than thirty degrees. However, one should be familiar with basic climbing skills like using an ice axe, crampon, and ropes which will be provided by our professional climbing guides at high camp.
Facts about Mera Peak expedition
- Max Elevation: 6,476m / 21,246 feet
- Time duration: 16 – 22 days
- Best Season: Autumn
- Accommodation: Lodges and Camping to Mera Peak / Camping during the 3 days climbing
Amadablam Expedition (6,812 m)
Also known as the ‘Matterhorn of the Himalayas’ Amadablam is not only a climbing peak but a full expedition peak with the height of 6,812 meters. Ama Dablam means “Mother’s necklace”; the long ridges on each side like the arms of a mother (ama) protecting her child, and the hanging glacier thought of as the Dablam, the traditional double-pendant containing pictures of the gods, worn by Sherpa women. Because of its location, it is one of the Best Destination for Mountaineering in Nepal. The peak is much more complex than the previous ones mentioned above. The climbers need to have good skills in rock and ice climbing and technically competent. On most parts of the routes, there will be fixed rope, however, the climbers should posses skills to climb through steep rock and hard water ice.
Facts about Ama Dablam Expedition
- Max Elevation: 6812m / 22,349 ft
- Time duration: 29 days
- Best Season: April–May (before the monsoon) and September–October
- Accommodation: Guesthouses & Lodges en route to Ama Dablam / Camping at Mt. Ama Dablam
Mount Everest Expedition south side( from Nepal)
Known as the benchmark of climbing achievement Everest is always on the top list of climbers. It is of the Best Mountaineering Destination in Nepal. The highest mountain in the world at a staggering 8,848m it is truly a challenge. Locally the mountain is known by its Nepali name Sagarmatha, meaning “forehead in the sky” and in Tibetan as Chomolungma, meaning “goddess mother of mountains”. Ascending Mt. Everest is a cautious and planned endeavor that requires excellent leadership, organization, excellent Sherpas, the best gear, safety equipment, and guides. So one has to physically and mentally fit in order to make the long journey to the top of the world.
Facts about Everest Expedition
- Max Elevation: 8848m
- Time duration: 66 days
- Best Season: March to May, October, and November
LOBUCHE EAST PEAK (6,119m)
Lobuche has two different summits, also known as Lobuche East and Lobuche West, with an elevation of 6119m and 6145m respectively. It features astoundingly close views of the surrounding Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam, Cholatse and Pumori. Lobuche East is much easier than the west side. As with all peaks you get beautiful views of the surrounding Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam, Cholatse and Pumori. Another mountaineer destination for beginners and expert climbers.
Facts about Lobuche East Peak
- Max Elevation: 6,119m
- Time duration: 14 days
- Best Season: Mid-March to May and October to Mid- December
- Accommodation: Lodges and Camping to Lobuche East Peak / Camping on Lobuche peak
Chulu West (6,419m)
Residing in the Annapurna region this peak features mesmerizing views of the nearby Dhaulagiri and Annapurna. This is another one of the best mountaineering destinations in Nepal. This does require some strenuous trekking and reaching the summit requires you to set up two high camps. Also, you will need to be physically fit and should have relative experience with climbing. If you’re looking for an adventure then this is a great addition to Annapurna Circuit Trek.
Facts about Chulu West
- Max Elevation: 6,419m
- Time duration: 20 days
- Best Season: October/November and March/April
- Accommodation: Lodges and Camping